On the Soane's steep western bank towers "Le Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourviere", its noble, time-stained parapets dart through the summer greenery like white fingers tenaciously anchoring the pious edifice to terra-firma. From its lofty perch the confluence of the rivers Soane and Rhone can be seen to the south.
"Montee du Gourguillon" is the steep roadway leading up to the Fourvier. Its name is derived from a deformation of “gargoyle" because of the way torrents of water rush down the street during a deluge. When Pope Clement V celebrated his coronation in Lyon in 1305, he fell from his mule while climbing this street and a precious stone broke from his crown and vanished in the crowd. It has not been found to this day. I suppose either he or his religion was not embraced by everybody in the crowd.
The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière is a minor basilica in Lyon, France. It was built with private funds between 1872 and 1896 in a dominant position overlooking the city. The site it occupies was once the Roman forum of Trajan, the forum vetus (old forum), thus its name (as an inverted corruption of the French Vieux-Forum).
Lyon's old sector at the foot of the Fourviere springs from its not so humble beginnings in the 12th. century. Its ancient buildings have been witness to frequent scenes of festivity, rioting, pomp and suffering through the ages. As one ventures into the web of narrow cobblestoned streets, passing through ancient portals and Roman ruins, the visitor is decidedly humbled under such profound antiquity. We who live in the great west are not accustomed to coming so close to the very roots of our civilisation.
With a population of 1.5 million, (only Paris and Marseilles are greater) Lyon supports a Metro system, a beautiful opera house, theatres and a plethora of fine eating houses including the famous restaurant, "Paul Bocuse" nearby.
Floating about the waterways of Europe is all very well and good, but the irksome business of working to survive had to be addressed. My partner in Montreal who was maintaining our business had not seen or heard from me in about five weeks. As Lyon was still only about half way to the Mediterranean I decided to quit the voyage and return to Paris where I could make arrangements for Montreal.
I took the 11.am. T.G.V. (tres grande vitesse) from Lyon's "Gare de Perrache”. Departures are frequent and the train certainly earns its name as it covers the 400 Kms to Paris in two hours. I was surprised at the small number of people in my carriage, it could have been that it was Sunday morning and that I was in a no-smoking car. Once clear of the city limits the train literally swoops across the provincial landscape; one experiences the feeling of low flying, like a lark soaring over the meadows.
I had to wait a couple of days for a flight out. A reasonably priced room was found on the Left Bank only a block from the Seine. I spent the days pleasurably visiting museums, other Paris landmarks and watching the artists ply their trade around Notre-Dame Cathedral.
The night before my departure was June 14th., Bastille Day. Gangs of stupid people roam the streets looking for trouble. Dropping burning fireworks from the bridges into the crowded boats passing beneath is prime entertainment. The drunken squeals and howls and breaking bottles continued through the night ceasing only at dawn. It was nice to see Montreal again, count my blessings and ponder future adventures.
I hope you have enjoyed the escape during these testing times of turmoil.
This quick ink sketch was done opposite Notre-Dame.
How do I end this story?
Much like my previous series about Eddie, it must end with a nostalgic sigh and a wink and a nod to past memories of better times.
I think it was Ernest Hemingway who said
“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.”
If you have enjoyed this, please catch up on my previous posts. Here is the full tale:
https://joomla.vps101246.mylogin.co/index.php/on-board-with-chaucer
Chaucer
If you would like to catch up on the trip so far, click on the links below.
Part 1 https://joomla.vps101246.mylogin.co/index.php/3045-on-the-wunderlust-ii-part-1-come-aboard-with-chaucer
Part 2 https://joomla.vps101246.mylogin.co/index.php/3058-paris-to-lyon-by-canal-on-the-wanderlust-ii-part-2
Part 3 https://joomla.vps101246.mylogin.co/index.php/3069-paris-to-lyon-by-canal-on-the-wanderlust-ii-part-3
Part 4 - https://joomla.vps101246.mylogin.co/index.php/3082-paris-to-lyon-by-canal-on-the-wanderlust-ii-come-aboard-with-chaucer-part-4
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